Dear Dr. Bailey, I am wondering if you can recommend a product for me. I am 50 years old. I have been using Jason brand vitamin C cleanser and face cream (both from Whole Foods) for over 20 years and I have never had a problem with it. In fact, people have always told me I have great skin. However, about a year ago, I tried a new product that was supposed to target wrinkles under the eyes. After a week of using this product, the pores under my eyes got clogged. They now look like chicken skin. You can't squeeze the pores. They are bumps. Other than this, my skin looks great. Common sense tells me that a good Retinol A serum at night on the area might help. But I can't find one. I do not want a Retinol A moisturizer. I don't want to lubricate the area. I want a serum. First of all, do you think this would help? And second, can you recommend a Retinol A serum that I should try? Thank you for any help you can offer. Sincerely, Gina P.
Hello Gina, The solution to treating bumps under the eyes needs to start with an accurate diagnosis, which means a trip to a dermatologist! The reason is that there are several other alternative causes of "bumps" under the eyes, and they are more common than clogged pores in this area.
Common causes of bumps on the lower eyelid skin:
- Prominent sebaceous glands. There are many sebaceous glands in this area and they become visible when the eyelid skin thins with age or becomes dark due to circles under the eye.
- Syringomas. These are actually benign tumors of the sweat glands. To remove or reduce these in size requires surgical or laser treatment.
- Milia. These are tiny white cysts that can form anywhere, including the eyelids. They can easily be lanced by someone trained in blood-born precautions (e.g. medical personnel).
Is there a real difference between a serum and a cream?
As for the difference between a serum and cream, it's actually not a hard and fast difference. Nor is there a precise definition. In fact, the term is often randomly selected by the product company for market niche purposes!
To really evaluate the pore-clogging capacity of a product, you have to read the label. Look for comedogenic ingredients, which I list here. Know that even this is not something that is well defined or absolute.
My Advanced Corrective Eye Repair Cream has the right amount of retinol for the eye area combined with other skin brighteners and ingredients to reduce undereye circles and puffiness. It is an opaque product that looks creamy, hence the term "cream." But it is light-weight and oil free. People love my eye cream. I wear it every day and love it too.
Finally, it's important to know that retinol can irritate skin. That's why you need to figure out the right strength for your eyelid skin. Avoid using a retinol product that's too strong for your delicate eye area because it can lead to irritation, which unfortunately can lead to milia formation. The retinol level in my Advanced Corrective Eye Cream is right for most people's skin.
I know that isn't exactly the answer you were looking for, but I hope it gives you some ideas about the possible causes of your under-eye bumps and how a dermatologist would approach the problem in her/his practice.
Cynthia Bailey MD, Dermatologist
Disclaimer: Please realize that availing yourself of the opportunity to submit and receive answers to your questions from Dr. Bailey does not confer a doctor/patient relationship with Dr. Bailey. The information provided by Dr. Bailey is general health information inspired by your question. It should not be a substitute for obtaining medical advice from your physician and is not intended to diagnose or treat any specific medical problem (and is not an extension of the care Dr. Bailey has provided in her office for existing patients of her practice). Never ignore your own doctor’s advice because of something you read here; this information is for general informational purpose only.