Dermatologist Reveals Which Skin Care Trends Are In And Out For 2019
Skin care trends come and go. Staying power in skin care is earned by products (or ingredients) that work. Online magazines are publishing the "Best and Worst Skin Care Trends of 2018."
To start your 2019 skin care routine in the right direction, here’s what it means for those of us who want to make smart skin care choices:
Charcoal skin care is out.
We could predict this. It’s why I never jumped on that train. It’s messy, drying and ineffective in skin care. Yes, it’s good to use with stomach pumping if someone (or your dog) eats poison – but that doesn’t translate to your pores. Yep, its use with gastric lavage is probably why charcoal got any traction in skin care in the first place – in my doctor’s-way-of-seeing-the-world opinion, of course.
What does have staying power as a top way to clean-out clogged pores is clay. Clays can pull debris and oil from pores. I use a clay base in my Bamboo and Clay Thermal Exfoliating Scrub to help pull debris from pores while the bamboo beads exfoliate to brighten your complexion. Clay masks are a favorite, too.
Complex skin care routines are out.
Phew! Think K-Beauty. Yes, there are some wonderful aspects of K-Beauty, but 10 step-cleansing is a lot. When I look over the steps, some of them are of little value. What is of value is the Korean Beauty focus on skin health, hydration and sun protection
Sheet masks are out.
I’m thrilled. These are part of the K-Beauty trend, but they show up everywhere, too. Sheet masks are face-shaped masks made of paper, fiber or gel that are soaked in something then laid onto your face. It's the "something" that is often dubious.
Many popular sheet masks expose your skin to product combinations that are full of fragrance, which is a potent allergen, in a quasi-occluded fashion. This just means that more of the allergen will pass through your skin's barrier. I’m not a fan except for the most hypoallergenic-formulations. That said, there are simple and deeply-hydrating sheet masks, and if you love sheet masks, focus on those. If you open a pack, and you get a huge whiff of perfume, I’d pass.
Hyaluronic acid is in.
This mega-hydrator has staying power as a trend, and it deserves it. With hyaluronic acid, look for products with a high amount to instantly plump limp skin with fine lines and wrinkles.
It is soothing, too, and plays well with other ingredients in your skin-care routine. Hyaluronic acid in multiple molecular sizes is what makes my Instantly Luminous Multi-Action Serum so popular.
Natural skin care is in.
I’m thrilled here, too. Goodbye to petroleum-based skin care of old. Hello richly-hydrating botanicals. Extra points for organic ingredients. Be careful though, natural is not all you need to know.
Poison oak and ivy are natural! Look for hypoallergenic natural products, and steer clear of botanical allergen essences. These are your best choices for natural skin care.
Squalane is in.
It’s not new, and don’t confuse it with squalene – which clogs pores and goes rancid fast.
What is squalane?
Squalane originally comes from shark livers. Now, we have botanically-based, cruelty-free squalane available for skin-care-product formulation. It is lightweight, feels great on your skin and plays well with other skin care ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
My popular, Daily Face Creams have always offered your skin a nice dose of squalane.
Mineral zinc oxide sunscreen is the top sunscreen choice of most skin care experts.
Expert-after-expert source is now circling around mineral zinc oxide as your best sunscreen choice. By expert, I mean dermatologists, makeup artists, and beauty experts, and quality skin-care-product-lines are all recommending mineral, zinc-oxide sunscreens.
That’s because the days of heavy, white chalky mineral sunscreens are behind us. Now, the best zinc-oxide sunscreens are lightweight and invisible on your skin.
They provide the best, broad-spectrum UV protection in a stable formulation that is also hypoallergenic and non-irritating compared with chemical, sunscreen filters. I’ve said this for years, which shows you the staying power of good ingredients.
Retinol is in.
You’ve seen it touted as the number one anti-aging skin care product in every good beauty article about anti-aging skin care. Everyone on a serious, anti-aging skin care routine needs to be using retinol, or its cousin Retin A. Retinol is less irritating than Retin A (the generic name of Retin A is tretinoin), is easier to tolerate, and does not require a prescription.
Don’t use these ingredients if you are pregnant, though. Both retinol and Retin A should be used at night, and the higher the concentration you use, the better your results. The best retinol products give you professional levels of retinol, meaning high concentrations of stable retinol, such as my Retinol Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream. Retinol should be part of every meaningful anti-aging skin care routine, and it is a clear trend for this year.
What Skin Care Trends Will Work For You?
To avoid wasting time and money on skin care products (or getting an allergic reaction from them), do a little bit of research before making a purchase. Check out the articles on this site for information about various skin care treatments and ingredients, and look at our different products to see what will work best for you. After 30-plus years of experience as a dermatologist, I've seen what works on my patients first-hand and have developed specific products for the best, long-term results.